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Best Mouse for Fortnite – Gaming mice have greatly evolved in the past few years, and we’re at a point where wireless mice have the same or even lower latency than some wired gaming mice. Some people might still prefer a wired connection’s reliability, but the difference will be negligible for most. When looking for the best gaming mouse, you need to look at the shape and how comfortable the grip is. The best gaming mouse will also have a high polling rate for a smooth cursor movement for your quick flicks. It’s important to remember that mice aren’t one size fits all, and you’ll want to choose the best gaming mouse for your needs, whether you want a simple design for FPS games or a mouse with many side buttons for playing MMOs.
- 5 Best Mouse for Fortnite: Round UP
- 1. Logitech G Pro Wireless
- 2. FINALMOUSE AIR58 NINJA
- 3. Logitech G502
- 4. Razer DeathAdder v2
- 5. Zowie EC2
- Buyer's Guide
- Enhanced DPI (Dots Per Inch)
- Multiple DPI settings
- Programmable buttons
- Variable Polling Rate
- Profiles & onboard memory
- Adjustable weight
- Wired or Wireless
|1.||Logitech G Pro Wireless||Check Price|
|2.||FINALMOUSE AIR58 NINJA||Check Price|
|3.||Logitech G502||Check Price|
|4.||Razer DeathAdder v2||Check Price|
|5.||Zowie EC2||Check Price|
5 Best Mouse for Fortnite: Round UP
The Logitech G Pro Wireless is an excellent wireless gaming mouse that’s versatile enough for office use. It has very good performance and is customizable within the companion app. Its size and shape are nice and comfortable, which is suitable for almost every hand size and grip, other than small hands using the fingertip grip. Also, it has an ambidextrous design, and has very low click latency when using it wired or wirelessly.
The Logitech G Pro Wireless is an excellent choice for FPS gaming. Regardless if you’re using it wired or wirelessly, it has very low click latency, which is very beneficial for gamers. Most hand sizes should be able to use it comfortably, although smaller hands may struggle with a fingertip grip.
The Logitech G Pro Wireless is fairly standard-looking, with a single RGB zone on the logo situated on the back. It’s made out of matte plastic, which looks nice and doesn’t give you the feel of a typical gaming mouse.
When I first heard about the G Pro Wireless, I expected it to be, simply, a wireless version of the G Pro mouse. But then I remembered: That mouse already exists, and it’s called the Logitech G305. Instead, the G Pro Wireless is a brand-new design, which is not quite comparable to anything else Logitech has on the market right now.
The G Pro Wireless is relatively small, at 4.92 x 2.50 x 1.57 inches, although it’s still big enough that you can hold it comfortably in either a palm or claw grip. The mouse has a perfectly ambidextrous design, with a left button, a right button, a clickable scroll wheel and two thumb buttons on either side, by default.
You may have noticed that I didn’t mention a button for adjusting dots-per-inch (DPI) sensitivity. The G Pro Wireless has one, but it’s not where you’d expect it to be. Rather than placing this button above the right button or below the scroll wheel (two popular locations for DPI buttons), Logitech has moved this control to the bottom of the mouse.
I don’t know whether gamers are going to love or hate this decision, but I see the logic behind it. The G Pro Wireless caters primarily to a competitive multiplayer crowd. When you fire up Overwatch or StarCraft or Fortnite, or whatever your game of choice is, you (probably) already know which character or faction you’re going to play, which control scheme you’re going to use, and which DPI settings you need on your mouse. Of course, you can program your thumb buttons to cycle DPI; otherwise, you can swap DPI between matches or after you’re done using the program.
Either way, the software is functional and lets you control quite a few things about the G Pro Wireless. You can customize DPI levels, button commands and RGB lighting for both the G logo on the palm rest and the three DPI-indication dots on the front. (You don’t see the dots all that often, unfortunately. I would have liked a few more lights on the surface of the mouse.)
I ran through Overwatch, StarCraft: Remastered, Baldur’s Gate: Enhanced Edition and The Walking Dead: The Final Season with the G Pro Wireless, paying special attention to the first two, because they attract huge multiplayer communities.
Whether the G Pro Wireless is better or worse than any other gaming mouse for competitive play largely comes down to your preferences. The G Pro Wireless is incredibly light and arguably more streamlined than any comparable peripheral. As a Logitech mouse, it performs incredibly well — naturally.
- Quite comfortable to use.
- Low click latency.
- Lightweight wireless versatility.
- Excellent build quality.
- Rubbery cable drags on a desk.
- Not recommended for smaller hands with fingertip grip.
The combination of a great large/medium shape, great buttons, the best cable out of the box and the 58 gram weight makes this mouse a dream to use.
If you can find it for a reasonable price I would recommend picking it up.
Let’s get the most obvious thing out of the way first, this mouse is ridiculously light at 58 grams.
Are there diminishing returns at this light weight?
After a few dozen hours of playing Overwatch with the Air58, I can say that the light weight is noticeable and in my opinion, I played better with the Air58.
Initially, the light weight combined with the slick feet actually threw me off and I was overshooting my targets on flicks coming from the Logitech G Pro Wireless, but after acclimatizing I felt my aim was better with the Air58.
There aren’t official dimensions released for some reason, so I’ve done my own measurements.
The holes are obviously its signature that enable the Air58 to be as light as it is, a side benefit of the holes is that my hands didn’t sweat one bit in high intensity gameplay.
Despite having all the holes, the structure of the mouse is solid, no flex when squeezed and no rattles when shaken. I did have a little creak on the left side of the mouse when first using, but it seems to have settled in and I can’t reproduce the creak.
The holes were a little uncomfortable at the start on my ring finger as I was used to using the mouse with a tight grip. I was quickly able to adjust and now hold the mouse very comfortable with very little fatigue over long gaming sessions.
The primary and side buttons are very good, tactile, responsive and well placed. They’re not as good as the god-tier G305 buttons but very very good as good as the Rival 600 or G703s.
The Air58 is pretty barebones:
- 2 primary clicks: left and right
- 2 side buttons
- Scroll middle click
- DPI switcher below scroll wheel
The side buttons are nice and blocky, it’s very easy to feel which button you’re pressing and the response is very good.
The scroll wheel is okay, it’s not particularly grippy or tactile so it’s not the best scroll wheel I’ve seen on a gaming mouse. The middle click similarly, is ok, a little squishy and has a higher weight than I’d prefer but not a huge deal.
This might be a cause for concern to some gamers wanting 1000Hz but I didn’t really notice any difference in response and in real world scenarios that difference would theoretically would be a 1ms in reaction time.
DPI settings are preprogrammed on the Air58:
- Step 1: 400 DPI
- Step 2: 800 DPI
- Step 3: 1600 DPI
- Step 4: 3200 DPI
This section will be short, the Finalmouse Air58 does not have much in the way of features; no wireless, no RGB, no weights (obviously) and no software.
The Model O is a slightly smaller mouse with a lower height at 3.75 cm vs the Air58’s 4.0 cm. The Model O is also a little more narrow than the Air58. The smaller size makes the Model O slightly more suited for finger tip grip, while the Air58 has a bit more compatibility with a palm grip, both shapes are excellent.
The major difference is obviously that the Air58 is way more expensive than the Model O. I find the build quality of the Air58 shell to be a bit better, more sturdy, less creaking.
These are both very expensive mice, the G Pro Wireless is a shorter mouse, taller mouse than the Air58 that makes it much more grip neutral, I’d argue that the GPW is better for palm grips while the Air58 is going to be better for claw grip.
The buttons are better on the G Pro Wireless pretty much in every category, much crisper and responsive.
The Air58 is still significantly lighter than the G Pro Wireless with it being 22 grams lighter and the difference is noticeable. Obviously the G Pro Wireless makes up for that by being wireless, I’d give the slight edge to to the Air58 in terms of speed.
- It’s a feather weight, 58 grams!
- Best in class super soft and light cable
- Great shape
- Solid construction
- Good buttons
- Flawless PMW 3360 sensor
- Generous 3 year warranty
- Only 500 Hz polling rate
- QC issues on previous Finalmouse products
- Branded design and superfluous Japanese influences
The Logitech G502 HERO is a great wired gaming mouse that feels well-made and has a premium look. It has a ton of programmable buttons, low click latency, and a wide customizable CPI range. Though it’s rather heavy, it comes with five removable weights to allow you to customize the weight to suit your preference.
The Logitech G502 HERO is a very good mouse for FPS games. It has low click latency, and a wide customizable CPI range and adjustable polling rate. It also has several programmable buttons, feels very well-made, and is quite comfortable if you can get a good grip on it.
The Logitech G502 HERO has a fairly aggressive, gamer-centric look. It looks fairly premium with a mix of matte and glossy black plastic and latex. There are two RGB zones: one on the logo, and one for the CPI indicator.
Even now, four years on from my initial review, it’s the most comfortable mouse I’ve ever used. Does that mean it’s going to be the most comfortable mouse you’ve ever used? Of course not! Mice are subjective, and shape is one of the most subjective aspects. Just because the G502 fits my hand perfectly doesn’t mean it’ll feel the same in yours.
That said, the G502 was supposedly (according to Logitech anyway) the best-selling mouse on the planet for a number of years. It’s very popular, and those who love it generally seem to love it a lot. Make of that what you will.
Speaking of, the G502 Hero still bears the dual-mode tilt wheel of its predecessors. There’s a dedicated hardware button that switches between a smooth scroll and a notched scroll wheel. I prefer notched personally, but smooth can be great for browsing webpages and such.
Flip over the mouse and you can pry off the bottom panel. Underneath is the G502’s customizable weight system, a series of grooves designed to house up to five 3.6 gram weights. That makes the G502 a hefty 121 grams unweighted or 139 grams fully loaded. I tend to opt for the latter, preferring a heavier mouse, but it’s a flexible design.
Logitech didn’t change much with the G502 Hero, but it didn’t have to. For three years I kept some variation of the G502 on my desk, swapping it out for reviews but always returning to it afterward. These days I use a G903, mainly because Logitech hooked me on its unique Powerplay mousepad last summer. But a few weeks with the G502 Hero made me want to go back again. It’s a phenomenal design, with smart button placements and a great scroll wheel. I’ve reviewed a lot of mice since 2014, but I’ve yet to find one I love more.
- Very well-built and premium feel.
- Low click latency and excellent sensor performance.
- Lots of programmable buttons.
- Fully compatible with Windows and macOS.
- Large design may be uncomfortable for people with small hands.
- Stiff cable.
The Razer Deathadder V2 improves on everything we love about the Deathadder Elite, itself one of the best gaming mice, and one that has been around since 2016 in various forms. But is the Deathadder V2, with its improved optical sensor, more durable left and right mouse buttons, and a smoother scroll wheel one of the best mice money can buy? Yes.
The fact Razer is using a new wire (with an equally ridiculous name, “Speedflex Cable,” also sounds insignificant, but turns out to be a big deal. I’ve used a version of the Deathadder (the Expert) for years, and my one complaint is that the stiffer wire can sometimes pull the mouse to one side, depending on how it sits on my desk. The V2’s wire is the most flexible I’ve tried on a gaming mouse, and ultimately that means it’s less likely to impact your mouse movement, even if you get lazy about wire management, like me.
The left and right mouse buttons are more durable than the Elite, too. They’re optical, rather than mechanical (they use an infrared light beam to register clicks), which means they should deliver fewer misclicks, lower latency, and have a longer life. Razer reckons they’ll last 70 million clicks, rather than the 50 million for the Deathadder Elite. While I can’t possibly tell how accurate that number is, they certainly felt as responsive as I could ever need, and I never misclicked. In games of Fortnite and Escape from Tarkov my shots felt instant, and I never had to worry about firing accidentally.
The up and down sensitivity buttons have been redesigned, too. The Elite’s were essentially one long, thin button split in two. The V2’s are wider and separated by a sliver of plastic. It doesn’t look as flashy, but the gap makes it easier to distinguish between the two without looking, ideal if you need to change sensitivity in the heat of battle (if you’re zooming in with a sniper, say).
Reborn for a new generation, the Razer DeathAdder V2 retains that same iconic shape while adding much-needed tweaks here and there. Much like the DeathAdder Elite, the V2’s DPI settings can now be increased or decreased via two buttons below the scroll wheel (which is more aggressively spikey for a better grip). In addition, the V2’s sides have been given a makeover with more subtle rubber. Rather than bulky hexagonal grips, the texture is tighter and smaller.
The main differences are those new DPI buttons below the scroll wheel, the latter also receiving a light makeover in the form of a new, more grippy surface. Unlike the DeathAdder Elite, these are of a square shape and sit within a groove that runs half-way down the mouse.
If you’ve used a DeathAdder before, you’ll know what to expect – and the V2 doesn’t disappoint. If not, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. This is one of the most comfortable gaming mice we’ve ever used, and it’s superbly grippy.
You’ll be most impressed with its speed, though. The 20,000 DPI sensor is absurdly responsive and accurate, offering greater control than most of the competition. You don’t need that much, of course, but it’s still welcome for those who want the quickest mouse available.
The only thing I’d prefer? Slightly more expensive materials. The Razer DeathAdder V2 doesn’t feel cheap by any means, but I’d like more pizazz in this department considering the fact that other, similarly-priced mice
- Satisfying, fast click
- Accurate and quick 20,000 DPI sensor
- Improvements for scroll wheel, grips, and DPI buttons
- Great shape
- Could be more luxurious for the price
5. Zowie EC2
For whatever reason, there haven’t been many medium sized mice that have ergonomic shapes, but because of that reason, the Zowie EC series has an offering that few other mice can offer.
The Zowie EC shape has been popular since its release in 2012 with the EC Evo. In 2019, the EC1 and EC2 shapes still fill a niche that few other mice do well, the EC versions occupy, and kind of dominates, the medium-ish ergonomic shape space with the only other mouse in this range.
A lot of people say that the EC has one of the best (ergonomic) shapes on the market and I still agree with that. It’s a mostly safe shape; there’s no crazy curvature that forces your hand to hold the mouse in a certain way and you won’t find any awkward grooves anywhere either. It’s not the first time I review an EC mouse so it’s probably not the first time I use this terminology, but for me the EC feels very ‘natural’ in the sense that you can place your hand on the device in a variety of ways without having to make any sort of adjustment. I’m glad that Zowie knows that they’ve got something good here and don’t try to make any unnecessary changes to this design.
The EC2 is a medium sized ergonomic mouse (check out the EC1 for a larger option) with a shape that doesn’t really need any introductions in the enthusiast scene. It’s commonly referred to as one of the best shaped mice in the business so naturally Zowie has left this alone.
Something to note here is that Zowie have clearly opted not to join the ‘ultralight race’ with this mouse coming in at 87 grams. That’s fine with me; not everyone wants their mouse to be as light as possible and 87 grams is still a very decent weight for a gaming mouse. Notably absent (when compared to most other gaming mice I mean) is a DPI button on top of the shell; as with most recent Zowie mice you can find that on the bottom.
Zowie famously uses Huano switches in their mice as opposed to the (far more commonly used) Omron switches. This results in a slightly heavier feeling click than what you might be used to if you’ve never used a Zowie mouse before. I’m not someone who prefers super light clicks myself, so for me the main buttons on the EC feel absolutely fine and I suspect they’ll feel fine for most users too.
Not a lot has changed between the EC2-B and this newest EC2 on this front but for me the clicks on the EC2 feel a bit crispier and more pleasant to use. They’re also notably quieter than those of previous iterations, but I don’t know if that’s a series-wide change or just a coincidence with my review unit. In any case: the main clicks on this newest EC are nicely balanced and there’s very little play or travel on the buttons themselves so for me these are great.
The EC2 is, like all Zowie products, completely plug and play. There’s no need (or possibility) to install software since everything is done on the mouse itself. That’s great news for players who move around a lot such as professional gamers but not such good news for people who like to create a bunch of macros in their mouse software, for example. In any case, it’s Zowie’s philosophy that peripherals shouldn’t need to be used along with software and I think that that’s a good approach if you’re aiming your products at the competitive/pro gamer crowd.
The most commonly used DPI levels (400, 800, 1600, and 3200) are all available via the selector button and you can change the polling rate on the device itself too, so I don’t think that there are many competitive gamers out there who’d have a problem with the lack of software. I certainly don’t.
Because of its unique shape and size the EC series is uniquely positioned to fit large hands that want to palm and any size down that wants to claw or fingertip. It’s easy to see why the EC shape has stood the test of time.
This is a difficult one for me in the sense that I’m just not sure if this is ‘the ultimate version’ of this mouse. I understand Zowie’s choice to ignore the lightweight race (since lighter = better definitely isn’t true for everyone and 87 grams is a good weight for a gaming mouse) but it can’t be denied that improvements can still be made to the EC series. I’m not even talking about the scroll wheel (which is a design choice) but I am thinking of the cable, side buttons, and perhaps also the coating.
- Really comfortable ergonomic shape, well balanced
- Flawless sensor
- Flexible rubber cable
- Software free, plug and play
- Coating can introduce dirt and grime build up for sweatier gamers
- Crazy loud scroll wheel
- Stiff clicks
Once you use a good gaming mouse you’ll never want to go back to a mouse. Based on personal experience playing with and reviewing more than 30 gaming mice, I’ve compiled some tips and recommendations to help you look beyond the shiny “marketing-ese” of bullet points and choose the perfect gaming mouse.
Generally speaking, any mouse labeled as a gaming mouse at a bare minimum offers superior precision, tracking, and control to standard optical mice—the kind usually bundled with a PC. Here’s a breakdown of the most common gaming mouse features, and some recommendations for which ones are the most important.
Enhanced DPI (Dots Per Inch)
The resolution of a mouse is expressed in DPI (Dots-per-inch), or less commonly CPI (Characters-per-inch). Basically, the higher the DPI, the farther the mouse moves with less movement from your hand. Low DPI settings are good for fine control—like sniping in a first-person shooter, or working at the pixel-level in a photo editing program. Higher DPI settings are good for fast run-and-gun shooting, or working on large monitors at high resolutions so you don’t wear out your wrists or your mouse pad trying to move from side of the screen to the other.
Most standard optical mice operate at a fixed rate of 800DPI. Gaming mice typically offer a range of DPI settings from 100DPI to as high as 8200DPI.
Multiple DPI settings
Many/most gaming mice support multiple (3-5 typically) DPI settings. Less expensive gaming mice may have ‘hard wired’ settings that can’t be changed. such as 800DPI, 1600DPI, and 2400DPI. More expensive gaming mice typically let you customize the DPI setting in 25-100DPI increments, so you could have whatever DPI settings you want—for example, 1000DPI, 1750DPI, and 3600DPI.
Gaming mice usually enable you to change DPI settings on-the-fly with the press of a button, so you can quickly change from ‘snipe mode’ (low DPI) to ‘blow the crap out of everything—what’s friendly fire?’ mode (higher DPI).
Mid-range and high-end gaming mice have extra buttons that can be programmed to replace keystrokes or store entire macros (strings of keystrokes and possibly other functions).
Be aware that virtually every gaming mouse’s ‘features list’ typically counts the left mouse button, the right mouse button, and the scroll-wheel button when they tally their programmable buttons. Because re-programming these buttons would likely be suicidal in virtually any game, subtract 3 from the total number of programmable buttons listed in the ‘features list’ for any gaming mouse to figure out how many functional, extra ‘actual’ programmable buttons it has.
In addition, ambidextrous mice typically have 2 thumb buttons on either side of the mouse, so the two buttons on the opposite side of your thumb will be of limited or no use to you.
Acceleration is expressed in G forces (one G is 9.8 meters per second). Acceleration affects a mouse’s ability to move more quickly based on how quickly you move the mouse. High acceleration can be used with a low-to -medium DPI setting to provide good accuracy when you need it (like sniping in an FPS) and quick, high-speed movement (such as turning rapidly) when the action heats up. Virtually all gaming mice support acceleration rates far faster than any human could task, so bullet points stating ‘30G acceleration’ and the like are pretty much meaningless.
Variable Polling Rate
Polling rate is expressed in Hertz (Hz). It essentially refers to how often a mouse is monitoring for input—the higher the polling rate, the more frequently the mouse is looking for/reporting input, and thus the more responsive the mouse will be. (In addition, higher polling rates will take a larger toll on battery life for wireless mice.)
Typical mice have a polling rate of 125Hz, which means the mouse is reporting input 125 times per second. That’s fast enough for typical desktop computing, but not so good for gaming. Gaming mice usually offer a choice of polling rates: 250Hz, 500Hz, and 1000Hz.
Profiles & onboard memory
Most gaming mice store configurations in profiles, enabling you to quickly switch between various configurations for different games. Profiles are usually stored in the mouse’s Onboard memory. Profiles and onboard memory enable you to use the mouse on any PC, with or without installing the mouse’s drivers.
Some manufacturers are looking beyond drivers and onboard memory, however. Razer, for example, uses Razer Synapse, a driver/firmware package to manage your Razer peripherals and store device configurations in the cloud.
A minority of gaming mice include a small selection of weights that can be inserted into the mouse to customize its weight.
Wired or Wireless
Gaming mice, like standard mice, come in both wired and wireless varieties. For a long time gamers shied away from wireless mice because they just weren’t fast or responsive enough. Even the briefest lag (and older wireless mice were very laggy) spells doom in a fast game, especially FPS games.
This is no longer the case, however. Better wireless technology, faster sensors, and other improvements have created wireless gaming mice that are generally just as fast and reliable as their wired counterparts. In addition, most (or all) of them can be used in either mode: wired while charging the battery, and wirelessly otherwise. Best of all, they can be changed on-the-fly. Just pop out the plug and your mouse won’t even miss a beat. Logitech’s G700s gaming mouse and the Mad Catz Cyborg R.A.T. 9 are both favorites.
LED lighting of some form or another is practically standard now on any mid-range or higher PC peripherals labeled as ‘gaming’—be it mouse, keyboard, headset, or speedpad. Some of the more expensive gaming mice let you specify the color of the backlighting and additional options such as pulsation, color cycles, etc. Lighting is mostly cosmetic but does have some practical applications: finding your mouse in the dark, for example, and tying mouse profiles to specific colors.
ed plastic, and some use glossy, sleek-looking plastic. Most use a combination of 2 or even 3 of these. Most feature braided fabric USB cables instead of nylon-sheathed cables for durability.
The primary characteristic of virtually all gaming mice is improved precision and control. The more you’re willing to spend, the more customization options and additional features you can get.
Here are a few things I’ve learned and some practical recommendations for buyers.
High DPI is not that important
Consider this: SteelSeries (a popular manufacturer of PC gaming mice) used to offer free, downloadable profiles created by professional gamers for the Ikari Laser gaming mouse (an old favorite of mine, by the way).
The interesting thing? Almost all of the profiles (with a couple exceptions) used DPI settings in the 800-1600 range, with an average around 900-1200DPI. In addition, most of the gamers used three or fewer programmable buttons.
The bottom line is that, generally, anything beyond 2400-3200DPI becomes a bit too fast for gaming. 3200DPI is almost the practical limit. Higher DPI settings in the 4000+ range can be fine for general PC use (on large, high resolution displays), but don’t translate to a better gaming experience.
Acceleration (g) is problematic, but high polling rate is good
It’s impossible to move a mouse with acceleration greater than 200 meters per second (20G), yet many gaming mice like to boast that they feature acceleration up to 50G or more. Higher numbers mean better, right? No. Acceleration numbers are largely meaningless.
However (at least subjectively speaking) I can feel a difference between 125Hz and 1000Hz polling rate. 125Hz feels sluggish and less responsive, so I’ve always made a habit of setting the polling rate for my gaming mice to 1000Hz. The only time you may want to reduce polling rate is to help save battery life on a wireless mouse.
DPI and Profile switching rocks
On-the-fly DPI switching is great to have for both gaming and even general day-to-day computing. Ideally, DPI and Profile switching should be accessible by a top-mounted mouse button (or buttons). Some gaming mice put the switch on the bottom of the mouse—avoid them.
I’ve found that having at least 3 different settings available (low, medium, high) is very handy. I typically like to use 3-5 DPI settings with a low of 400DPI (sniping) and a high around 3200DPI, with 2-3 settings spaced evenly in between. Sometimes I’ll keep a single 5000+ DPI setting for non-gaming use.
Programmable buttons are your arsenal
Programmable buttons are definitely nice to have, for both gaming and day-to-day desktop use, but more doesn’t always mean better. Turning again to the SteelSeries profile example above, profiles created by professional gamers only used a couple customized programmable buttons, if any.
MMO-oriented mice, however, usually have a vast arsenal of buttons. In my experience, the “grid” style buttons (such as those on the Razer Naga) work best for linear progressions. Designs that place buttons all over the mouse (such as the Cyborg MMO7) lend themselves toward more general utility (frequently used attacks, accessing inventory, etc.).
Just remember than a dozen extra buttons doesn’t make them all useful (or reachable). Ergonomics and hand size play a big role in determining just how many of the extra buttons will be easily usable.
Adjustable weights: not that important
Truthfully, I’ve never really had a strong opinion one way or the other on mouse weight. I appreciate a large, heavy mouse that feels solid under my hand as much as a lighter mouse that glides lithely over my mouse mat. Some gamers have distinct preferences. My contention is that you will quickly and easily adapt to the weight of any mouse, and fine-tuning the DPI and other aspects can help compensate as well.
Comfort is king
All the awesome features in the world won’t help you if your mousing hand cramps into an arthritic claw after an hour of game time. Comfort is important and dependent upon your preferred ‘grip’ style, so it’s entirely subjective.
A big part of comfort is tied to the materials used in the construction of the mouse. Some feel good in your hands, some don’t. Put simply, here is my list of preferred materials (favorite to least favorite) commonly used in the construction of gaming mice: Rubber, Textured Plastic (matte finish), Glossy Plastic.
Rubber is cool, very grip friendly, and it stays cool even with long gaming sessions. I really like textured rubber side grips and smooth rubber along the backside of the mouse. I like textured plastic as well.
The best shape and style depend on your preferred grip. One of my favorite shapes for gaming mice is the shape used by the Mionix NAOS 7000.
Left-handers have fewer options, but there are still a number of good ambidextrous designs such as the SteelSeries Sensei [RAW] or SteelSeries RIVAL mice, the Razer Taipan, and even one just for lefties: the Razer DeathAdder Left-Handed Edition.
Don’t forget the soft stuff
Virtually all gaming mice (and keyboards) come with software for programming, customizing, and configuring the device. In my experience, Razer, Roccat, SteelSeries, and Logitech make some of the most intuitive, flexible, and easy to use driver software—Mad Catz and Mionix are probably close seconds.
Trailing the ‘heavyweights’ are brands like Corsair, Tt eSports (Thermaltake), Coolermaster, and Raptor-Gaming—smaller gaming divisions of much larger companies that don’t focus as much on PC accessories and peripherals. This isn’t to say their software and hardware isn’t good, but in my experience it lags a bit behind the aforementioned ‘heavyweights’ in the industry.
Best Mouse for Fortnite List is ended here. Let us know which mouse you use for fortnite.
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